Can’t really believe that I spent 20 days in Swiss within 2 months. Love that “new lifestyle” without comp climbing, it shows me that the decision, to stop competing, was the right one 🙂

When I was in Ticino last week I also did a little coaching with some of the Tyrolean Climbing Kids. Showing them what “Tickmarks” are and where to grab the holds on the right places. Those gym kids are pretty overstrained, when there are no coloured holds around 😛 (I know, I’m a gym kid too :D) Therefore I spent most time in Cresciano, where it was slightly too hot for me, but I surprised myself with an ascent of “La Pelle” 8A, which felt quite impossible during my xmas trip. After a quick send of “Kirk Windstein sit” 8A/+ and getting a slap in the face at “La Boule” 8A I was looking for another boulder, and spotted one called “L’illumino d’immenso” 8A. Looked like nothing when I went to the bloc where it was located, but it turned out to be a real nice climb on crimps and a bit of compression. For me it was more 7C+ than 8A.. #conditionsmatter

some kiddies in snowy chironico (c) Fabian Leu
“La Pelle” 8A (c) Fabian Leu

M’illumino d’immenso (c) Fabian Leu

With a lot of cuts and on my 3rd day on, I checked out the kingline “Walk the Line” in Chironico. I saw an Insta-story about that boulder, since then it stayed in my mind. 3rd day… I had absolutely no expectations. Good on me, cause it went REALLY shitty hahahaha. Could barely do the moves, just figured out the right beta and wrote it down for my next session.

That “next session” was on Saturday, where I did the stand start (7C+) really easily. To be honest, I did it twice, because no one was here to record it when I did it the first time #oooops #solomission
Afterwards I concentrated on the sit, which adds another 9 moves into the stand start. The stand consists of 8 moves, including a nasty footswing and toehook at the end. After falling a few times at the very end, I decided to call it a day and try it again tomorrow, cause I had no bodytension and power anymore. It was windy and cold on Sunday morning. Perfect connies, but I felt weak from the day before, which is not the best for a tension-boulder. On my first try of the day I had my toe already on the spot where it should be, but it slipped. urghhhhh. resting. next try. didn’t get the toe. resting. I think I managed to climb it on my 5th go of the day, with one of the biggest fights I’ve ever had. Well, boulders don’t get easier when you’re running laps on them while projecting…

Uncut video of the ascent here.

“Walk the Line”

“Walk the Line”

That “happy feeling” of the send got a bit understated when I felt a strange feeling in my right pointer while crimping hard on “Teamwork”. I stopped immediately and didn’t do any other climbs on Sunday. Rested on Monday too #supportteam and went to the doctor for an MRI (yes, again. Seems like I need a seasonal ticket). The good thing: pulleys are ok and all other tendons too! My capsule got “only” a distortion, which will take 6 weeks or longer. I hope I can climb again soon with all fingers on the wall, but the next days or weeks I’ll do some back 3 training (middle, ring and pinkie). #staypositive #gettingstronger

Natureclimbing brushes


Schattental vibes