Summer means Silvretta season. The season kicked off last weekend, where it was already way too hot for me and we wondered “how can it be THAT warm in the end of may?!” Welllllll, down jacket, gloves, beanie and the other jacked remained unused 😛 I’ve been to Silvretta quite often already, but I have still a bunch of projects and unclimbed stuff left (thank god).

Last weekend

As we didn’t know much about the amount of snow which was still left, we decided to go straight to the “new” stuff underneath the “Sekten Sector”. Actually that “new stuff” isn’t that new anymore, but as I don’t know the name of the sector, it remains new for me. There are 3 8A boulders in the cave: “Diamond Nuts”, “Sucker for Pain” and “Maribou”. I still had to do all of them… 2 years ago I tried Diamond Nuts for the first time, but didn’t look good in it. If I remember right, I didn’t try it last year due to injuries. This year I came there without any expectations and did it in one session. Worked out pretty well 😀

Diamond Nuts 8A

Diamond Nuts

Then, with no skin left, we went to a boulder I’ve only seen on pictures and never tried before – “Hard Attack” which was actually 8B but then someone found a heel hook and it was downgraded to 7C or something #happens
The climb is amazing, although it’s kinda lowball. The first 2 moves are the crux: beta is here, but no send, because, you know … skin.
Skin is always the best excuse in Silvretta 😛

Hard Attack

31st May – 2nd time

I made 2 rest days with a lot of Antihydral and Climbskin before heading to Silvretta again. My skin gets really shitty when temps raise. In my opinion it just stops growing – anyone with the same problem?

Motivation was high, the to-do list was (too) long:

  • Sucker for Pain 8A
  • Maribou 8A
  • Hard Attack 7C (?)
  • British Airways 8A
  • Pretty Belinda variations 7C-8A
  • X-Ray 8A
  • More Shining (8B, which was pretty optimistic :P)

First stop was the “new” Sector again. After a quick warm-up Dave and me tried “Maribou” and quickly figured out a nice beta. Although the holds were a bit soggy, we both managed to do an ascent. The bloc looks kinda shitty when you look at it: so many holds, white spots everywhere and no clear line. But when you found a way to the top it’s a real good climb.

“Maribou” (c) Manuel Schof

Afterwards straight to the opposite side of Maribou: Sucker for Pain! I was struggling with the far crux move since 2 years, couldn’t stick it last week and then I suddenly sticked it several times this time! Doing it from the start was another little struggle then, because it’s +4 moves in. To be honest, I was a bit surprised when I finally sticked the far move during my send go 😛

crux move “Sucker for Pain” (c) Manuel Schof

Sucker for Pain

Then:  C-A-R-D-I-O
From the lowest point of the area to the almost highest sector, where “Memento” and “More Shining” are. A bit of snow was still left up there, but I’m sure it will be gone in a few days. Made a quick power check at the start move of “More Shining”, which was satisfying cause I sticked it. Unfortunately my shoulder power is still not the best and I was still scared of the hard shoulder move because I hurt my shoulder in this move 2 years ago. Gymsessions are calling! After slipping from a tiny crimp, I decided to move on to “X-Ray”, my nemesis boulder and long term project.
I checked out the moves 2 years ago, but, of course, couldn’t remember them anymore #welldone
It felt like hours till I found a beta again, especially for the shitty start, where every hold is full with chalk but no one is good. Sorry for the excuse again, but I couldn’t do it due to skin matters hahahaha the sun got out too, and temps raised again which made me slip even more in those slope-compression moves. Karo got smarter and wrote down her beta this time, so the bloc should go down quickly next time 😉

“X-Ray” 2 years ago (c) ansichtssache, Andi Aufschnaiter

poor instinct VSR 🙁