After coming home from Murgtal on Thursday I drove to my parents on Friday, cause it’s half way to Maltatal. On Saturday early in the morning (6:50am) David Kompatscher and Phil Danzl picked me up and we started our one day trip. I wanted to try “Wrestling with an Alligator” 8B once again and “Orgasmatron” 8A. I try Wrestling and Orgasmatron every year once, because I visit Malta just too seldom. Well, yeah. 8B is still to hard for me for one session a year hahahaha. I definitely have to go there more often to make some serious progress.

golden autumn

David checked out a short sport climbing route in “Gamsgraben”, right next to “Air”. During his breaks Phil and me tried “Air direct” 8A, which was not on my ticklist, but the boulder is really amazing, I love the moves! Phil started the sendtrain at Air direct, Dav sent his route and finally I sent “Air direct” too. I definitely have to come back for the sit, “Air” 8B.

Air direct 8A
pic by David Kompatscher

Afterwards we went to the Alligator block, where we met another 2 Davids. Dave Mason and David Fitzgerald, which are trying hard on “Bügeleisen” with several splits. They checked out the moves of “Wrestling…” with us, where Dave M. was already pretty close to sending it. He will cruise it after a restday for sure 😉
I had still some troubles with the start heelhook… somehow I can’t find the right bodyposition to do the moves. That’s why I need some more sessions on it 😉 I decided to stop trying this project and focus on the crimpy boulder “Orgasmatron”.
Cooling down the fingers. Checking out the moves again. It was pretty warm for a day at the beginning of November, but the 2 Davids brought a ventilator, which made my day! Finally I figured out again how I did with the second last move and how to place my feet for the intermediate. Then I gave the final send and it meant really a lot to me, to finally send this boulder. I can still remember when I tried it 2 or 3 years ago for the first time and I had zero chance to do the moves. Although it was a really though year today I somehow got fit again (including my fingerstrength!) and currently I’m really enjoying my shape 🙂

David F. sent just after me and thank god his camera was recording all the time – so I have a footage of my send – check it out HERE.

Crossing my fingers for the 2 Davids that their skin heals fast, the weather will get better and the conditions will get lit! C’mon guys, send that Bügeleisen!

Orgasmatron 8A
pic by David Kompatscher