Saturday, 15th July. Finally. The day I was waiting for around 2 months. I am speaking about the international bouldercup in Frankenjura, which takes place every year in the „Blockhelden“ gym in Erlangen (around 20 min away from Nuremberg). I competed there already 2 years ago and finished in 2nd place right behind Lena Hermann. This time 400 competitors took part in the qualification.

This time there were some more strong opponents: Alma Bestvater, Afra Hönig, Andrea Kümin, Lilli Kiesgen and Moni Retschy
In the men category Alexander Averdunk, Alexey Rubtsov, David and Ruben Firnenburg and Jan Hojer gave their best to secure their victory.

If you want to see a quick interview with me (only in german) on the facebook livestream, click here (around minute 40)

The Qualification

60 boulders from easy to really hard – and only the hardest 12 you climbed count for the result. The mode was a „Boulder Jam“, that means that you can climb as much as you want in 4 hours qualification time. The best case would be to flash all the hard boulders and save skin and power for the finals 😉 But hey, I’m not Alexey Rubtsov or Jan Hojer hahaha

After 2,5 hours I stopped my hunt for ascents, I felt tired and my skin hurt. I had no idea if it was enough for finals (which were my main goal) – but hey, I finished qualis in 4th position 😀 That meant finals – and all 6 finalists get prize money, which was also pretty cool. Then I saw that 4 girls had exactly the same result on the 5th position, so we were 8 finalists. The fight started again for some $$.

A big shoutout to all the routesetters: I really loved the boulders, they were not like the current worldcup-parcour-style, you really needed power and some good slab skills. I hope the WC style will change again next year.

the athlete briefing

 

the scorecard

The finals

After finishing the qualification the isolation opened immediately and 10 minutes later it was already closed hehe. Everybody in the girls field was suffering about skin problems 😀 The mode in finals was a bit different than the worldcup mode. There were 3 boulders for all female finalists and only the 4 best finalists after the first 3 boulders were allowed to move on to the 4th problem.
The observation time for ALL boulders was 10 minutes, so we could move on to the next one or go back to another one as we wanted to.
The next difference was, that a girl made one try and after that she had to go to the isolation again – then the next finalist came and gave it a try. The maximum amount of tries was 5.

Some girls and boys started to skip a try, to have a longer break, save skin and power – I had to skip the last try of the 3rd boulder due to a bleeding fingertip and no tape next to me 😛 But the 3rd boulder was too hard anyway, so it didn’t matter – in my opinion – that i skipped.

The first 2 final boulders were really cool, unfortunately it took me too many tries to stick the little dyno in the 1st problem 🙁 The 2nd one was a slippery volume-wrestle boulder which was pretty powerful and didn’t fit my style properly – but it was a good training and I gave my best.

I finished in 6th position and – yayyyyy – I got some money 😀 I’m gonna save it for my next bouldertrip 🙂

isolation 😛

 

the finalists

 

observation

 

trying to find a good starting position during observation

 

yay, it worked 😛

 

volume wrestling on problem no. 2

 

no. 3

 

awarding ceremony

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