Silvretta. One of the best boulder spots here in Austria. The best spot in Austria when temps start to raise and you want to go bouldering though. It’s located in the western part of our country, at about 2500m sea level.

It’s no problem if you plan to stay there longer than one day, because it’s legal to camp there and there are also (clean) bathroom facilities. But every car has to pay 5€ a day for parking there, which is OK in my eyes.

thunderstorm passing by?

The rock is sharp. Very sharp. And very crimpy. So if you have tons of skin and massive crimp power you will love it there! I love it there although I have shitty skin hehe but somehow you always survive one day there 😉 I’ve never been there a 2nd day on, cause I prefer to give 100% on one day instead of 50% on the first and then maybe skip the 2nd day cause the skin hurts too much or I have no power left.

Well, I started my Silvretta season with the Kompatscher brothers – Dav and Phil. They gave me a hook from Innsbruck and we worried already during the journey that it might get too warm. During the hike up to „Golden Gate“ Sector we knew, that it’s way too hot. Luckily we found some snow next to a bloc and chilled a bit there before starting serious business aka bouldering.

pro-filmer dav

After warming up on „Sunny Side Up“ 7B and „Atomblitz“ 7C we decided to try „Rongbuk“ 8A+ before skin got too wasted. I’ve tried it only once 2 years ago for a very short time. So I had no idea anymore about the beta, but Dav gave me some advice and showed me how to do the moves and the massive right heel. I was surprised that I could do all moves pretty quick, because I have still no idea how fit I’m at the moment compared to the other athletes. And I was so happy that my knee didn’t start to hurt, although I made the heel-hook section several times 😀 The only thing that was missing, was the swing-catcher-move in the upper part. That’s what I’m gonna train the next 2 weeks in the gym hahaha I wanna climb that boulder so bad, the moves and movements are just amazing. It’s just a pity that you need a certain size for that problem… if you’re too short you can’t reach the holds with the heel in. I’m not sure if a woman already did Rongbuk.

After getting wasted on Rongbuk (skin and heel-hook muscles) we decided to give „Superkombi“ 7C a sendburn, because it was in the shade then. After finishing it off super fast, the hike down began again – but not to the car! Our destination was the newer area under „Niviuk“ and „Zu jung zum Sterben“ which was opened last summer/autumn. „Sucker for Pain“ 8A is a cool line down there with a massive crux move, which feels pretty hard for me. I wasn’t able to stuck it last year and this year I came pretty close – but only as a single move. If you add the 4 startmoves the situation will be quite different I guess 🙁
We did also a nice traverse which is around 7B, and has the same start as „Sucker for Pain“.
In the cave are 2 more amazing 8A boulders, „Diamond Nuts“ and „Maribour“. You should definitely give them a try when you’re there!

Psyched for the next trip!

trying hard on „Rongbuk“ (c) David Kompatscher

 

„Supercombi“ 7C (c) David Kompatscher

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