My first short visit to Ticino is already over 2 months ago. I visited only one area in Chironico called 101. This time I spent 12 days there – 9 climbing days if I could keep my 2-1 rhythm. I couldn’t hahahahaha. Due to fucked skin and a really sore feeling body I had to make some more restdays than planned. I also had big struggle with too dry skin (maybe due to too much Antihydral?), got several splits, no warm fingers and made 97203 dryfires. The skin problems really annoyed me and I was not able to enjoy the trip to the fullest..
We stayed at Claro at the „Stillharts“ in a nice apartment, unfortunately we had to go outside the house to get some wifi and stay updated on Facebook, Insta and Whatsapp. (Yes you got it right, wifi is pretty important for me hehe #nerdie) The weather was amazing. 11 days of sun – only one snowy day, which was a restday for us 🙂 Couldn’t imagine better conditions. Well, my Ticklist was long.. I guess it was way too long for that first real trip to Ticino. Due to the fact I felt really strong in the gym and outdoors I had big expectations on myself. During the first 2 climbing days I didn’t send anything, I just wrecked myself when I tried 4 hours „Frank’s wild years“ and afterwards „The Dagger“.
I also sticked every move of „La Pelle“ 8A in my first session there, came there some days later again to send it, but somehow I couldn’t stick the crux move anymore.. I have no idea why, but I think I have to train my biceps a little more 😀 The boulder is really cool, crimpy and tricky with the toehooks. I couldn’t do the normal beta with the undercling, so Chris showed me his solution with the crimp instead of the undercling #betabitch

„Franks wild Years“ 8A+
(c) Damien Largeron

 

„The Dagger“ 8B/8B+
(c) Damien Largeron

 

„La Pelle“ 8A
(c) Chris Rauch

The next day we drove to Brione, where „Marilyn Monroe“ was also on my Ticklist. I didn’t manage to do those 2 moves on the left ramp, which really annoyed me because I didn’t know if I was just too sore from the day before or too weak? Had another session on that boulder where I found a better body position – ok, only one move missing! But I wasn’t able to find a solution for that one, need to come back with stronger shoulders hehe. I also tried the kneepad beta… Not sure if I want to climb that boulder with a kneepad? If I’m strong enough the next time I can climb it with the usual beta 🙂
Damien found a good looking highball slab right behind „Humphrey Bogard“, I have no idea about the name or grade, but it was quite fun to find out a beta and fail every time 😀 Reached the 2nd last crimp every time, but the boulder kept throwing me off.. Definitely a one to try again next time!
Another beautiful boulder is called „Sonnenanbeter“ 7B+ directly on the river. It’s pretty high and you need a lot of pads to feel safe, but if you checked the topout once it won’t be a problem anymore 🙂

the unknown highball slab
(c) Damien Largeron

 

unknown slab
(c) Damien Largeron

 

„Sonnenanbeter“ 7B+
(c) Markus Ixmeier, boulderclassics.com

 

In Chironico I sent „The arete with a Pocket“ 8A after checking out the moves again including the topout. Felt really good to finally send a boulder of my ticklist, although it’s definitely not the hardest 8A. Made also some progress on the crux move of  „Delusion of Grandeur“ 8A+, where I touched the next hold already! Hope to grab it in my next session then, to start some send burns.

„The arete with a Pocket“ 8A
(c) Stefan Kürzi

During another session in Chironico I sent „Souvenir“ 8A and „Komilator“ 7C. Souvenir has a big heel-toe cam with the right foot, which sticks perfectly…. to perfect hahaha. When I had the hook in and made the move up to the sloper I fell and my heel stayed in while I was already laying on the pad. My Achilles tendon wasn’t amused at all, and I was so scared of that cam, that I tried the dropknee beta several times until Chris convinced me to do the cam again – shoutout to him for that amazing spot that made me feel safe again 🙂 My Achilles tendon was pretty blue in the evening and walking hurt, but fortunately everything was ok after 2 days (Y).

„Souvenir“ 8A
(c) Chris Rauch

 

„Komilator“ 7C

On our very last day of the trip we went to Chironico again, unknowing wether there was snow on the blocs or not. Thank god everything was dry and the sun was shining again. Although the sun was shining it was freezing cold the whole day.. maybe around -4 degrees the whole day? Chris‘ water started to freeze and my yoghurt became a frozen yoghurt hehe. It was hard to get warm and even harder to stay warm. My fingertips were covered in 6 tapes – perfect for „Le Pilier“, a really crimpy problem. I realized that it makes no sense to try it more often, cause I just couldn’t hold and feel the crimps. Instead of trying small-hold problems I decided to check out the amazing looking „Rah Plats Plats“ traverse (8A). Took me a bit to get my fingers and body warm again and after making all single moves I started to give sending burns. Due to the fact that the boulder has about 30 (mini) moves, I needed long breaks between my fails. I failed pretty often at the middle/end part, because my fingers were so frozen and I couldn’t crimp anymore 🙁 I’m not a „loud“ climber, that always shouts and screams when failing. It needs a lot that I become angry and start shouting – that boulder made me REALLY angry hahahaha. When you know, that you can send, but the conditions are just a bit too cold and you’re not able to do something against it – worst feeling ever! In the very last try of the day I finally sent the boulder, unfortunately I have no video, the mantle in the end was embarrassing hahahaha, even worst than a stranded whale I guess 😀
Couldn’t be happier about the end of the trip, left Ticino with good vibes and I’m already looking forward to coming back – maybe with a little warmer conditions, where even my fingers stop freezing.

„Rah Plats Plats“ 8A
(c) Chris Rauch

I’m really glad that I have amazing friends and family, that tell me not to give up. It’s hard not to have doubts about the power and climbing ability when you’re not able to send any hard boulders and you arrived with high expectations.

 

Of course we also had some „fails“ during our trip, some were funny, the others not hehe.

  1. Chris was in a hurry when we drove to Ticino from Innsbruck – he drove into a radar and got a letter with a 160 CHF bill some days later.. Expensive start into the trip :-/
  2. I think it was the second day of our trip when we wanted to drive to Brione. Went to the car in the early morning (as usual 😉 ) but there was another car parking in front of ours – we couldn’t drive away hahaha. We still don’t know which idiot parked his car there…
  3. Some hours later Brione then we had a lot of Black Diamond „Mondo“ pads. I don’t know how it could happen, but we forgot one in the forest in the evening ^^ We didn’t notice it when putting all pads into the cars and drove home to the accomodation. When unpacking our stuff and pads there, we detected, that one pad was missing.. Shit happens haha I’m sure it had a lovely night in Brione 😉 A friend planned to climb in Brione the next day anyway, so he packed it into his car for us 😛

 

Miami or Ticino?

 

best chalk! stays on your fingers much longer than normal one 😀

 

pussy skin.

no skin.

dry skin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

amazing landscapes

 

 

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