I have never climbed till yet in December at the „Felbertal“. Fortunately we have a very dry and warm „winter“ – boulderer love it, skiers will probably hate it 😉
Well, I had still one open project on the sloper-traverse-bloc, called „Schluck du Bruder“ 8A. I have no idea why I never tried that boulder before, maybe due to the fact, that I didn’t like slopers and the conditions were not perfect. I decided to give that boulder a try, because I felt (and still feel) in an awesome shape. It took me one session with Norbert on Halloween, for checking out the moves and getting some splits (umm, maybe 7?) and then another one to climb it pretty fast 🙂
Norbert noticed, that there is a lower start possible… I had to think about that sit down the whole time and gave it some tries after topping the normal start of the 8A. After finding some tricky beta I had some really close attempts, but my skin was already shitty and it got too cold, so there was no friction on the slopers and I just slipped the whole time.
Then the snow came… ok, just a little bit haha 😉 But enough to stay on the bloc :-/ I planned to come back next weekend, but was not sure if it will be dry. My Dad drove to the area for brushing the snow away, that I could make another attempt 2 days later. After a quick warm up I decided to give it a go, not sure if the friction was good enough, because it was freezing cold. Surprise, surprise – suddenly I stood on the top of the bloc 😀 What a good start!
The next stop was „Saiwai“, a one move 8A. I tried it years ago, but it’s definitely not my style. This time I found a little intermediate and was close on sticking the lip. Unfortunately that intermediate was so sharp that I got nearly 4 splits. I had to stop trying, but I’ll be back in 2017!
Next stop: „Invader of the Kingdom“ 8A+ (former 8B). I call it a longterm project, because I already try it for 3 or 4 years now hahaha But I only had about 4 sessions on it, due to very rare prime conditions in that cave. It’s wet for ages and it condenses in summer.
Never saw that boulder that dry than last weekend. It was the first time I could stick the crux move by myself – then I started giving goes… Buttttttt I just couldn’t stick the crux move with the 6 moves you have to make before. I definitely have to put some more sessions and time in that problem to do the moves faster and find some more micro beta.
And the last boulder for today was „Royal Highness“ 8A. It’s a combination of 3 boulders on the bloc in front of the Invader-cave. I hate the start of that boulder, it’s a 7C+ onemover with a tricky beta (for me). Of course I had no idea anymore how I did that start a few months ago, so I had to check it out again haha. The middle and final part are cool! After brushing the snow away from the top out and an imminant hold, I checked the sequences again. Ok, ready for some attempts!
I had the 3rd last hold and wanted to make the move to the 2nd last – that move was never a problem for me. Except now: I had no idea how to place my body and my feet anymore – and fell onto the pad. Really pissed, I wanted to check it again, but couldn’t remember my beta.. After nearly 10 more tries I found the solution again. 10 min break, and then another go. I sticked the startmove really close, cause I already felt tired, made the middle part and was just about going to the top section, then my foot slipped and I found myself again on the pad.
The struggle is real with that boulder.. We don’t like each other hahaha Onto another session in 2017 to take the bloc down!