Yes I know it’s hard to believe that I have never been to Ticino since past weekend. I guess all good climbers are there around X-Mas and New Year’s Eve 😛
I made a 2 day trip (4 hour drive each way) there – with no expectations for my performance. I was just happy to spend some time outside on the rocks and climb without a hurting shoulder 🙂

On Friday Stefan Kürzi joined Chris and me for a little shooting at “Insanity of Grandeur” 8C , “Delusion of Grandeur” 8A+ and “Arete with a Pocket” 8A. Thanks again for the really nice pictures 🙂
I made good progress on Delusion, while Chris was trying hard on Insanity. Delusion has around 17 moves until you reach the topout slab. During those 17 moves you use your right heel hook for EVERY move except one. I think you can imagine how sore my right foot felt the next day 😛
The mantle in the end is pretty scary (hard, high, bad landing), so scary, that I had to check it out with a rope. But I managed to stick all moves but one. Looks like I have to go back soon!


Delusion of Grandeur 8A+    (c) Chris Rauch

As I wrote before, my right foot was too sore after many tries and I had to find a boulder for my left heel – “Arete with a Pocket” was the perfect choice. Managed to make all moves, but unfortunately the topout was so dirty, I couldn’t climb it. Maybe I have to take a ladder with me next time I go there..

Although I didn’t send a boulder, I enjoyed the trip a lot and I’m pretty sure that I will send something next time when I come back stronger (and with a ladder).

Arete with a Pocket 8A © Stefan Kürzi /

Arete with a Pocket 8A
© Stefan Kürzi /