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(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

The bouldering area called ‚Obersulzbachtal‘ is pretty unknown yet. There are many boulders around 7C and a few harder ones from Bernhard Schwaiger.

Location and how to get there

Obersulzbach is located in ‚Neukirchen‘, pretty close to the ‚Großvenediger‘ mountain. You can either hike 2 hours or book a taxi that takes you in 20 minutes up to the area at about 1700 meters above sea level – it’s a good alternative for hotter summer days. There is also a river beside the road where you can take a bath (if you’re really brave) or just cool your feet a bit. The surrounding up there is just amazing!

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Overnight accomodation

If you want to spend some more days there and you don’t want to drive down again (every taxi drive costs 10€) you could reserve a room in the ‚Postalm‘ where you can also have some dishes whenever you wish 🙂 But if the weather is good, the chalet is booked out very fast.

(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl capturing the warm-up situation

(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl capturing the warm-up situation

I drove with Chris Rauch and some friends of mine, who explored that area, so they could show us around. Until yet there exists no official topo, but a lot of videos on their youtube channel. The blocs are directly on the street – perfect if you’re lazy and don’t want to hike a lot haha. Due to the fact, that not many people are bouldering up there, we had to brush several lines again to make them climbable. I personally prefer going to areas where everything is brushed and I can try the boulder immediately 😉

After the warm-up our first stop was a boulder called ‚Under Pressure‘ 7C. Although it was a anti-style arete in the beginning for me, I did it in my 2nd go. Armin was already trying the sit of it, which was still a project and around 7C+. The guys had a very powerful beta, which was too hard for me 😛 I figured out a kneebar-beta, which made it really easy – but nobody else could climb it like that 😀 I nearly did the FA, but slipped out of the last sloper… then I did the 2nd ascent 😉
Later I destroyed my skin with figuring out (again) a new beta for a 7C+ called ‚Rusty Nail‘, because I couldn’t do the weird move around the arete with the original beta.. With no skin left and a big break I could finally climb around the corner and stick the top dyno 🙂

Under Pressure (c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

Under Pressure
(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

Street Artist 7A (c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

Street Artist 7A
(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

 

Chris climbing Rusty Nail (c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

Chris climbing Rusty Nail
(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

We hoped for cool conditions the next day in the morning, like the day before… but it was so warm!

Our first stop was the ‚Under Pressure‘ bloc again, where I did my first ever FA of a boulder 😀 Chris was very gentleman-like and brushed it for me to make it climbable hahaha I called it ‚the kneebar‘ 7C. The video is on my instagram account.
After doing some other stuff a thunderstorm came in the afternoon and we tried to get a taxi down to the parking place again. Sounds easier than it was… we did not reserve one and many tourists wanted to go down via taxi to their cars. All in all we had to wait about 2 hours for 2 free places 🙁

The next day I felt so sore and tired. I had muscle ache in my feet and everywhere – but I still have no idea why my feet were hurting…

"you have to take the hold like this!" "...ok" (c) Bernhard Hörtnagl

„you have to take the hold like this!“
„…ok“
(c) Bernhard Hörtnagl