I returned from South Africa, had 2 training sessions in the gym and already missed the rock. I knew that the weather will be really hot, and there is only one perfect place to be: Silvretta!
The 2 boulders I wanted to try were the highball “Skiroute Project” and “More Shining”, both 8B.
Skiroute Project has the same start as “Charity Bouldern”, but goes up straight, instead of climbing to the left. The first 2 moves of the highball are the hardest. I decided to use the intermediate-beta for the first move instead of making the little dyno up to the jug.
I had bigger struggle at the second far move, but I knew that there should be another intermediate crimp somewhere. The guys who were with me were all too scared of that move, so I had to look for the crimp on my own hahaha After some searching I finally found it, but the move was still very far for me (did you already know that I’m bad at dynamic things? No? Now you know it 😉 )
The rest of the highball are good incut crimps, so it’s pretty much over after those 2 moves 🙂
For the video, klick here.
I tried “More Shining” already last year, but had big troubles with the far shoulder move to the right. I also hurt my shoulder at that move a year ago and it took almost a year until I could climb without pain. The respect of that move was pretty high, as you can imagine. Maybe too high. I couldn’t switch my head off to try that move. Well, maybe next year when my shoulder is stronger 🙂
Searching for a cool and shady place, we tried the hardest 8A in Silvretta (or on earth?!) – “X-Ray”
The only problem in this area, which has not only sharp crimps, it’s a compression Fontainebleau problem. Slippery, hard, tricky. Still too hard for me 😛