After the stressful traveling since mid April I decided to take a week off from training in the gym. I wanted to spend some time outdoors on the rock again. Lorenz Ulmer flew from Copenhagen to Innsbruck to join me. On Sunday 22nd May I enjoyed an awesome day in Zillergrund and came home with 2 birthday 8A’s. The first one I did was „Golden Roof“ and after that we did „Jam Session“

jam session (c) Lorenz Ulmer

jam session
(c) Lorenz Ulmer

golden roof (c) Lorenz Ulmer

golden roof
(c) Lorenz Ulmer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday was a restday, and we still could not decide if we should stay in Austria or drive to Magic Wood, due to the constantly changing weather forecasts. I went to the gym on Tuesday morning and when I came home, Lorenz told me that we must drive to Magic Wood now, because the weather will be perfect until Saturday. Well, in the evening we arrived the forest, and did a nightsession – my second training on that day. Late at night we checked in to the ‚Generoso‘ Appartement, where we met Mattias, our room mate from Australia.

The next day I did a little warm up flash on ‚Papa Chango‘ 7C and afterwards I tried ‚Nothing Changes‘ 8A on the ‚Unendliche Geschichte‘ Block. After some figuring out how the moves work, and some nice beta tipps from Lorenz and Mattias I sent it in my 2nd attempt. That was a pretty good start in the short trip. Want to watch the video of my attempt?

nothing changes

nothing changes (c) Lorenz Ulmer

My 3rd climbing day in a row started at the darkness cave, where we also met Gabriele Moroni. Last autumn I tried ‚the right hand of darkness‘ 8A already with Berit Schwaiger and Madeleine Eppensteiner, but we were not able to do it. I had to check out the first moves again… first I had not the feeling, that I would climb that one today. But after some trying I felt ready for the serious attempts. I was glad, that I did it pretty quickly, after starting those serious tries, because my skin was pretty shitty.
Afterwards we went to ‚Jack’s broken heart‘ 8A+ where Lorenz finally climbed it!! After falling several times the day before. On our way to ‚Neandertaler‘ we stopped at ‚Foxy Lady‘ 8A. I did it already last autumn, but Lorenz also wanted to climb/jump it. About 2 hours later he finally sticked it and we could move on 😛
Then we did a quick flash of ‚Neandertaler‘, it felt like 7A, but in the guidebook it’s about 7B+. Due to pretty less skin we went to the ‚Unendliche Geschichte‘ Block again. I tried ‚UG 2‘ 8A which is a total anti-style boulder for me. I did really well compared to last year, but I was still not able to climb it. Maybe in autumn when I come back 🙂

right hand of darkness (c) Lorenz Ulmer

right hand of darkness
(c) Lorenz Ulmer

On my 4th climbing day I felt just sore and everything hurt. I was pretty unmotivated and just wanted to chill in the sun, sleep and do nothing. After some falling down on a 7B I decided to destroy myself on ‚Intermezzo left‘ 7C+. I did the right exit already last year, but the left one is much harder! Now I know the beta for it, but I have to come back with my full power and maybe climbing day number 1 😉

I enjoyed the week off training in the gym. I’m so looking forward to the next WC in Vail on 11./12. June and then to 4 weeks Rocklands, where Lorenz, Mattias and me will celebrate our reunion 🙂

THE CREW

THE CREW